CHAPTER I.
THE TRAPPER'S ART.
During past ages a large number of the wild animals of the backwoods and
stream
were pursued and caught in different ways by the occupants of the
wild,- - the tissue of these creatures being the chief food of
numerous clans of savages and the skins being utilized for clothing; yet it
was solely after hides turned into a staple article of wearing attire among
acculturated countries and the brokers had learned of the benefits to be
made in the hide exchange that discount and efficient catching started.
For a long time after the initiation of the hide exchange this
country, the control of catching was consumed by the local
occupants, however later a portion of the bolder of the white race pushed
into the wild and took in the catcher's specialty.To-day there are thousands
of trappers scattered over the United
States, Canada, Alaska and Mexico and the catching of wild animals
for profit is no longer considered to be an occupation fitting only
for the savage, for there is scarcely a farmer, ranchman or other
person whose calling brings him close to nature who is not more or
less interested in the fur-bearing animals. Wild animals are not all
hunted for the sake of their furs. There are some such as the wolf,
coyote, mountain lion and wild-cat which have become positive
nuisances because of their destruction of stock and for such the
government and in many cases the stockmen pay a bounty. The capture
of wolves and coyotes especially has become a profitable business.
As to the profits to be derived from this occupation, there are
professional trappers in the North, South and West whose catches
amount to from five hundred to two thousand dollars or more each
season, but the number who do as well as that is comparatively small.
By far the greater number of trappers are those who follow other
occupations and devote only their spare time to the capture of wild
animals and they are for the most part farmers and country boys who
in this way add considerable to their yearly income.
It is not at all necessary to go into the wilds in order to do
successful trapping, and almost any farming section will be found to
be a paying trapping ground. Indeed, the country man or boy will in
most cases do far better in his own home district than he would by
going into some place with which he is not familiar even though the
fur-bearing animals be more plentiful there than at home. In his own
territory he will learn the haunts of each kind of fur-bearing
animal, its route of travel, the dens, etc., and this knowledge will
be of great value when the actual trapping commences.
Of course all of the various species of animals will not be found in
any one section but where one is missing there will be some other
found in fair numbers. Muskrats are most numerous as a rule in the
settled parts of the country and wherever the muskrat is found there
the mink is moreover. Skunks are found all over and the
straightforwardness
with which they might be caught makes the catching of them a
rewarding business. Foxes are viewed as in the majority of the uneven
areas and
while they are not so handily caught, one can make an achievement of it
assuming he gives the matter cautious review and uses adequate
consideration in
setting and going to the snares. In many pieces of the South the
raccoon is found in overflow as is additionally the opossum and the otter,
the wild feline and different creatures are tracked down more sparingly in
many parts
of the country.
The catcher regardless of where he is found is sure to meet with
numerous difficulties however it is a wonderful requiring all of that and there
is a sure measure of delight in even the most unpleasant encounters.
Whenever one has followed catching for a couple of seasons it is nearly
difficult to surrender the wild, free life. The investigation of the propensities
for
the wild animals which is fundamental on the off chance that one wishes to
turn into a
fruitful catcher carries one into close touch with nature and the
work is incredibly entrancing.
In the good 'ol days before the steel trap came into general use, the
deadfall and the catch were utilized only for the catch
of the hide conveyors, yet at present when steel traps have reached a
high condition of flawlessness, are sold at costs which place them inside
the scope of all, they are liked by most catchers and a considerable lot of
the
most master have disposed of the wooden snares completely.
Nonetheless, both
the deadfall and the catch are great snares for specific creatures and it
is well to know how to make and involve them for one may at times see a
great spot in which to put a snare however might not have a steel trap
along. In such cases the information on the most proficient method to build
a commonsense
deadfall will be of worth. The facts confirm that a large number of the hide
bearing
creatures are too tricky to even think about being caught by such an
invention however some
of the most attentive fall simple casualties to the catch. Probably the most
master fox catchers utilize the catch in inclination to the steel trap however
the number is similarly little.
Many styles of traps have been designed and probably the most
promising styles were set available however it is suspicious if any
trap will at any point be planned which will approach in prominence and
general
value the bygone era jaw trap, regularly known as the "steel trap".
These snares have been worked on in numerous ways until at present they
are
practically awesome and are made in sizes and styles to meet all
necessities and all states of catching.The jaw traps possess decided
advantages over all other styles of
steel or wooden traps. They are light and compact and may be moved
from place to place without inconvenience to the trapper, will
capture the most wary animals as well as the most stupid and will
work perfectly under all conditions whether set in the water or on
dry land, on the snow or on a log or stump or the side of a tree.
They may be used with or without bait and if the proper size of trap
is used and it is set in the right way it will capture almost any
animal that comes that way. What other style of trap possesses all of
these advantages?
As most of those who have never done any trapping know practically
nothing regarding the use of traps I will outline briefly the methods
usually employed for the capture of fur-bearing animals before
proceeding farther.
Most of the animals which are caught in traps are decoyed by means of
a bait,--something in the line of food which appeals to its
appetite,--so placed that in attempting to reach it the animal places
its foot in the trap. The most common way is by setting the trap in
the entrance to some natural enclosure, such as a hollow log or
stump, a hollow between trees, or a hole in the rocks, or under a
stump the bait being placed in the enclosure beyond the trap. Failing
to find a natural enclosure, the trapper constructs one, using such
material as may be found on the spot. It is advisable as a rule to
make as little disturbance as possible and to give the enclosure a
natural appearance.
It sometimes happens that an animal can not be induced to approach a
bait and in such cases the "blind set" is resorted to,--in other
words the trap is set without bait in a trail where the animal
travels or at the entrance of its den. Failing to find such a place
the trapper carefully studies the route of the animal and selects a
place where some natural or artificial obstruction will crowd it into
a certain spot where he carefully sets his trap in such a way as to
catch the animal the next time it comes along. These blind sets are
as a rule very successful and many trappers use such methods
exclusively.
In setting steel traps, great care is advised for the one who learns
to do this most neatly, leaving everything natural is, as a rule, the
most successful. One should always be certain to get the trap in the
right position for to miss catching an animal not only means its loss
for the time being but many of them will become wiser from such
experiences and their capture will be more difficult afterwards. The
trapper is wise also who gives sufficient attention to the fastening
of the trap, thus reducing the animal's chances of escape after it is
once caught.
To properly set a steel trap on dry land one should dig a "nest" for
the trap, deep enough to allow the covering to be flush with the
surroundings and just a little larger than, and of the same shape as
the trap when set. This hollow should be lined with dry leaves or
moss and the trap placed therein. To make the trap rest solidly so
that there is no danger of it being tipped over also to make the jaws
set level, the spring should be twisted around towards the jaw which
is held down by the trigger or "dog". The trap should then be covered
with some light, dry material in keeping with the surroundings, a few
dead leaves or a sheet of paper being used first to prevent the
covering from rolling under the pan and in that way prevent the trap
from springing. Instead of doing this some trappers place a bunch of
cotton or dry moss under the pan but I do not think this advisable.
[Illustration: Trap Set in Correct Position at Entrance of Den.]
In all cases when setting traps at dens, on trails or at the
entrances of enclosures, the trap should be so placed that the jaws
will be lengthwise of the animal's approach so that it will step
between the jaws and not over one of them. If the setting is reversed
the rising jaw will sometimes throw the animal's foot out of the
trap.
There are various good methods of fastening and the proper one to use
depends on the nature of the surrounding and the species of animal
that one is setting for. Water animals should be drowned as quickly
as possible after they are caught and in order to secure this result
the "sliding pole" is used. This is simply an inclined pole leading
into deep water and of a size that will enable the ring of the trap
chain to travel easily its entire length. The most common way of
using the sliding pole is to thrust the small end into the bed of the
stream and fasten the other end securely to the bank. The pole should
have a few branches near the small end to prevent the ring from
sliding off. All water animals when caught in traps plunge into deep
water immediately and the ring of the trap chain sliding down the
pole makes it impossible for the captured animal to again regain the
shore. In order to make this outfit more certain when setting for
large animals such as otters and beavers, a stone of six or eight
pounds should be tied firmly to the chain but not near enough to the
trap to interfere with the action of the swivel.
In trapping for muskrats and mink the usual practice is to simply
stake the trap the length of the chain into the deepest water
available, the weight of the trap being sufficient to hold the animal
under water.
For land animals the trap may be fastened to a "clog". This is simply
a chunk of wood, a pole, brush or stone, the object being to hamper
the animal in its movements and prevent it from getting a dead pull
on the trap and chain. In fastening to the clog the staple may be
used or the chain may be dropped through the ring so as to form a
loop which is slipped over the clog, a few snags being left stand to
prevent the chain from being drawn over the end. When setting for
bears the ring is slipped over the clog,--a pole,--and fastened with
a spike or wedge. Some trappers prefer to use a pronged iron drag and
this is especially desirable when trapping for the more cunning
animals such as the fox, coyote and wolf as the drag may be covered
without leaving much sign. A stone may be used in the same manner by
securing with wire to the end of the chain.
For the animals mentioned the traps are sometimes staked down
solidly, the stake being driven out of sight but this gives the
animal a dead pull and they will sometimes escape.
Such of the fur-bearers as are likely to escape by gnawing or
twisting off a foot may sometimes be held securely by the use of the
"spring pole" or better still, the "balance pole". The spring pole is
a small springy sapling, trimmed of its branches and planted firmly
in the ground. The trap is fastened to the small end which is drawn
down and held in that position by being hooked lightly under a
crotched stake or a link of the chain may be hooked to a headless
nail driven in the side of the stake. In theory this device works
nicely but in practice it is not found to be perfect as the wood will
lose its "spring" if kept bent for some time, especially in freezing
weather.
[Illustration: The Balance Pole.]
The balance pole is more faithful in its action. It is simply a long
slender pole fastened in a crotch or tied to the side of a sapling,
the trap being secured to the small end. It is so balanced that the
weight of the butt will not only lift the trap but the captured
animal as well. It is fastened down in the same way as the spring
pole and is released by the struggles of the animal.
In order to keep steel traps in perfect working order they should
have a certain amount of attention. Repairs will be necessary at
times and before the trapping season commences one should look them
all over and see that they are in good condition. The triggers should
be so adjusted that the pan will set level. All parts should work
freely and the trap should neither spring too easily nor too hard.
Rust on traps is not desirable and may be prevented to a great extent
by boiling the traps occasionally in a solution of evergreen boughs,
maple, willow or oak bark or walnut hulls. This will give the traps a
blue-black color and they will not rust for a considerable length of
time. New traps will not take the color very well but they should be
boiled just the same to remove the oil also the varnish with which
some manufacturers coat their traps. Some trappers smoke their traps
before setting believing that the odor of the smoke will smother that
of the metal. This however is not in my opinion a good idea as clean
iron has no odor and the smell of smoke enables the animal to locate
the trap, thus having just the opposite of the effect desired.
Others again, grease or oil the traps which is also bad for the same
reason and another thing worth considering is the fact that a greased
trap does not have as good a grip as one which has not been so
treated. For my own part I would rather have my traps red with rust
than to have them oiled, and if it is necessary to oil the joints of
a stiff working trap, use some oil having practically no odor, never
strong smelling substances such as kerosene.
As to the number of traps that one can handle, this depends on
conditions. The kind of animals that one intends to trap for, the
nature of the country, the method of setting and tending traps, the
amount of fur to be found, etc., must all be considered. The muskrat
trapper who is in a good location where traps may be set from a boat
or in the marshes where muskrat houses are plentiful as on some parts
of the Atlantic Coast, can easily handle from seventy-five to a
hundred or more traps, looking at them once a day. The marten
trappers of the Northwest sometimes use five or six hundred traps,
but the traps are not set far apart and the trapper spends a number
of days in going over the line. In the thickly settled districts
there are comparatively few who use more than five or six dozen traps
for they must be seen each day, and for beginners from two to three
dozen traps will be sufficient.
As before mentioned, steel traps are made in various sizes so that
they may be used for all animals, from the smallest to the largest.
The No. 0 is the smallest size and is intended for such small animals
as the pocket gopher, the rat and the weasel. If the spring is of
fair strength as it is in the higher grades they may also be used for
muskrat and marten. They are used extensively by the marten trappers
of the Rocky Mountain region.
The No. 1 is known as the muskrat trap and is the best size for this
animal. It is also used for mink, skunk, opossum and marten.
The No. 1 1/2 is a very popular trap as its size and strength adapt
it for general use. It is known as the mink trap, but the tendency
among trappers is to use the 1 1/2 for larger game and the No. 1 for
mink. It is the best size for skunk, and if the spring is of fair
strength, it will hold the fox, coon, fisher and lynx as well as all
smaller animals.
The No. 2, which is the smallest size of the double spring style is
known as the fox trap. It is also the best size for coon and is
sometimes used for otter especially in the North but in my opinion it
is too small for regular use on otter.
Next in order is the No. 3 which has been named the otter trap, and
it is the proper size to use for this animal. It is also used for
catching the coyote, beaver, wild cat and lynx and is a very popular
trap in the more remote sections of the country.
The No. 4 trap was originally intended for the capture of the beaver
and is the proper size for that animal. The higher grades of this are
also used to a great extent for trapping the timber wolf, also for
otter and coyote.
The best trap for wolves, however, is the 4 1/2 which was designed
especially for trapping these animals. It is considerably heavier
than the No. 4 and is fitted with a longer chain and a pronged drag.
This size is also used for taking the cougar or mountain lion.
The bear traps are known as the No. 50, the No. 5 and the No. 6. The
No. 50 is the smallest but is sufficiently strong for the black bear.
For those who prefer a larger trap for this animal, the No. 5 will
prove satisfactory, and it will also hold the grizzly, but is rather
small for that animal. The size best adapted to the capture of the
larger varieties of bears is the No. 6, which will hold almost any
living animal.
In addition to the traps mentioned, there are a number of special
styles designed to meet the demand from those trappers who desire
special traps for some certain animals. Among these may be mentioned
the clutch traps, the single spring otter traps and the traps with
offset jaws.
It should be understood that in writing the foregoing description of
traps, I had in mind the higher grades only. In the following
chapters devoted to the capture of the various animals, the proper
sizes and brands of traps to use will be given.
[Illustration: The Skunk.]
CHAPTER II.
THE SKUNK.
The skunk is a creature of the weasel family, and is found all through
the United States and the southern pieces of Canada. A completely mature
example will ordinarily quantify sixteen or eighteen inches, from the
nose to the foundation of the tail, which is around twelve or fourteen
inches long and very thick. The tone is a polished dark, with
generally, a white V-molded stripe reaching out from the highest point of
the head
to about a large portion of the length of the back. Frequently, this stripe is
very
wide and expands the length of the body, while in others the stripe
is missing, there being just a white spot on the head, and a white
tip to the tail; this last option stamping being found on all examples. In
a portion of the Pacific coast States, an assortment is found having just a
single white stripe running the whole length of the back. There is
likewise a little animal varieties found in pieces of the Mississippi valley,
which
has white spots, rather than stripes. This creature is known to the hide
exchange just as the catchers, as the "civet feline", albeit the valid
civet feline is a seriously unique creature.
The skunk has become very well known, among rural people, as a result of
its strong fragrance, which is found in two organs close to the base of the
tail, which the creature can launch voluntarily. This fragrance is maybe the
generally strong and hostile, all things considered, and its utilization is the
skunk's just method for shielding itself against foes.
The skunk makes its nook in the ground, normally along a gravelly
slope side, and it in some cases utilizes the cave of the woodchuck. In
thickly settled nations where the nooks have been obliterated by
trackers, they frequently make their homes under outbuildings and outstructures,
and surprisingly under abiding houses, doubtlessly arousing a lot of
inconvenience for the
detainees.
The skunk is a nighttime creature, looking for food just around evening time
and
staying in its nook during the day. During the virus part of the
winter, they stay in their caves, coming out just on warm evenings,
until after the center of February, when their mating season
begins, and the guys travel, as of now in practically a wide range of
climate.
The youthful are brought into the world in April and May, and there are for
the most part from four
to ten in a litter, however sometimes there will be a bigger
number.
Their food comprises for the most part of bugs, grubs, youthful birds and
eggs,
what's more whenever they have a potential chance to do as such, they will
kill and eat
poultry, and so forth They are likewise partial to remains, and surprisingly
the tissue of
their own sort.
In the northern expresses the skunk becomes prime with regards to the last
week in
October, while in the super south they are most likely not prime until
the last week in November. In the north they begin to shed their
hide about the 10th or fifteenth of March, while in the south they
shed still before. During freezing climate, when the skunks have
been bound to their sanctums for an impressive time span, the
warmth of the caves tends to harm the hide. The guys moreover
battle among themselves and their hide is regularly harmed along these
lines. At
different occasions the hide is ruined fairly, due to excessively little an
access to the lair, the hide having a scoured or wooly appearance. It
is the fine dark skins taken when in the best condition, that are
the most important. Skunks are, maybe, found in the best numbers
in the eastern states, and the catchers from that segment, make more
cash from skunks than from some other creature.
In winter, one might follow them to their sanctums, and assuming the cave
is a decent
one, may see as quite a few skunks, up to twelve, in a similar nook.It is a
common practice to dig the den open and kill all the inmates,
but as this method means the destruction of a good den, it is not
advisable to do so. The best way is to trap them, as in this way the
den will not be injured, and it is almost certain that you will find
skunks in the same den each season. Such a den is worth money to the
trapper. The oil of the skunk, if rendered carefully, without
burning, is useful, and is often used by country people as a remedy
for croup.
The most common method of trapping the skunk is to set the trap in
the entrance of the den, without bait, but where there are many dens,
or where the dens are hard to find, it is best to use bait. In
setting the trap in a den, it should be set just inside the entrance,
unless the mouth of the den is small, when it should be set just
outside. The trap should be set with the jaws lengthwise of the hole,
so that the skunk steps between the jaws, and not over them, as by
stepping over the jaw the foot is likely to be thrown out of the
trap, by the jaw, as the trap springs. This rule also applies to all
traps set in dens or enclosures of any kind. The common way of
fastening is to stake the trap or fasten to a clog, but the balance
pole is better.
No great care is necessary in covering the trap, as the skunk is not
suspicious, but it is always best to use care, especially in setting
baited traps, as one never knows what animal may come along. On one
occasion I caught a fox in a trap set for skunk.
It is a good idea also, when trapping at dens, to put a small scrap
of bait inside of the den, as many skunks that are traveling about,
only look in and turn away, and if the trap is set inside, will not
be caught. If, however, there is a small bait inside the den, the
skunk will attempt to get it, and will be caught in the trap.
The traps most used for skunks are the No. 1 and No. 1 1/2. There are
also some special traps manufactured for these animals, having double
jaws or webbed jaws, to prevent the animal gnawing off its foot.
Traps set for skunk should be visited every day, as otherwise the
captured animals are likely to escape. They seem to struggle more on
dark stormy nights, and during such weather, one should get around to
his traps as early as possible in the morning.
Sometimes one can find a well-defined trail leading away from the
mouth of the den. In such a case, several traps may be set in the
trail, thus doubling or trebling the chance for a catch.
When good dens cannot be found, dig a hole under an old stump, and
place a bait inside, setting the trap directly in front of the hole
and cover with dry dirt. Sprinkle some scent about, on the stump and
ground; use care in setting as you are likely to catch a fox,
providing the trap is carefully set and covered, and the stake driven
out of sight. For bait use tainted meat of almost any kind.
Another good way is to find a spot of sandy ground, and set the trap
in a small hole, covering with sand. Cut the bait into small pieces
and scatter it all around the trap, also, if you have it, sprinkle
some scent around. The trap may be fastened to a brush drag, and the
brush set up to look as though it were growing there.
If you can find a tree or stump with two spreading roots, set the
trap between these roots and fasten the bait on the side of the tree,
about ten inches above the trap.
Still another way is to make a small pen of old, rotten wood, stones
or stakes, setting the trap in the entrance, and placing the bait in
the pen beyond the trap.
Any natural enclosure, such as a hollow log, a hole in the bank, or
in a wall or pile of stones, makes a good place in which to set a
trap.
Skunks may also be taken in box traps, deadfalls and snares, and they
seldom become scented when caught in such traps.
For bait, the following are all good: muskrat, skunk, chicken, birds
of any kind, rabbit, squirrel, mice, rotten eggs or fish--tainted
bait is always to be preferred for skunks, fresh bait being second
choice.
To make a good decoy, take one-half dozen rotten eggs, and the scent
of one skunk, and mix thoroughly. A mixture of the male and female
scent is probably best. Many of the decoys recommended for the fox
are also good for skunk. The scent of the skunk itself, is one of the
very best to use.
Most trappers object to having the scent of skunks on their clothing
and for this reason I give the following methods for killing the
captured animals, so that they will not throw their scent. If the
trap is staked, or fastened to a clog, cut a club about four or five
feet long, and approach the animal very slowly, using care not to
make any quick movements. If the skunk raises its tail, as though it
intended to throw its scent, stop, and stand perfectly still until it
drops its tail again, when you can go nearer. In this way if you are
careful, you can easily get within striking distance, when you should
deliver a good smashing blow across the back. If the back is broken,
the muscles which operate the scent glands will be paralyzed, and
there will be absolutely no danger of getting a charge of perfumery.
Some trappers fasten their traps to the end of a ten or twelve foot
pole, and by approaching carefully, can pick up the pole, when by
going slowly, the skunk may be led to the nearest water where it may
be drowned. Lead the skunk into shallow water, gradually working it
into deeper, holding its head under until nearly drowned, then let it
have a little air,--just a breath, and push it under again, keeping
it there until its struggles cease. If the animal is caught by a
front foot, it may be carried to the water, as a skunk can seldom
throw its scent if lifted off the ground, and not allowed to touch
anything with the hind feet or tail.
Another method is to cut the animal's throat with a small, very
sharp, pointed knife blade, attached to the end of a ten foot jointed
pole. Approach the animal carefully and place the point of the knife
against the side of the animal's neck, just over the jugular vein.
Push steadily against the knife; as soon as the blood flows freely,
move away and allow the animal to die.
Perhaps the quickest method is to shoot the skunk in the center of
the back, with a 22 caliber rifle or pistol. This breaks the back
killing the animal almost instantly, and there will be no scent
whatever.
If the trap is fastened to a balance pole you can kill the animal by
a blow across the back. Never shoot them in the head, or stride the
head with a club, as they are certain to throw their scent if killed
in this way.
If the fur of the skunk has become scented, I use the following
method for removing the scent: Build a fire and throw an armful of
evergreen boughs on it so as to make a dense smoke. Hold the scented
animal in the smoke for about five minutes, using care to keep it
away from the fire or the heat will curl the hair. After the skunk is
skinned hang the skin in an airy place for a few days, when there
will be practically no smell left.
Before skinning or handling the skunk, rub your hands with some kind
of grease. After the animal is skinned, wash your hands well, using
soap and hot water; there will be no scent remaining on the hands.
Benzine or gasoline will also remove the scent from the hands or
clothing. Cider vinegar is also said to be good. If the clothing is
buried over night in damp ground, the scent will usually draw out.
The track of the skunk is peculiar and is not likely to be mistaken
for that of some other animal. Although a member of the weasel
family, it does not travel by a series of jumps as does the weasel,
mink, marten, etc., but maintains a steady walk, and the foot-prints
will be an even distance apart and spread considerably so as to make
a wide trail. The length of step is about five inches and the
footprints will measure from one to one and a half inches in length,
according to the size of the animal.
[Illustration: The Mink.]
CHAPTER III.
THE MINK.
The mink is a little flesh eating creature, having a place with the weasel
family. It is found all through the United States and the larger part
of Canada and Alaska. A particular animal varieties is likewise found in
Europe and
Asia. In North America there gives off an impression of being a few
assortments, changing
significantly in size and shading. A huge, light-hued assortment is
found in the nation depleted by the Mississippi River and its
branches, and furthermore in the grassland nation of Canada. This
assortment
at times arrives at the heaviness of four pounds, or considerably more, and
the
skin, when appropriately extended, will here and there quantify 36 or
38 crawls from one tip to another. A more modest and more obscure
assortment is
found in the Eastern States and the Eastern pieces of Canada and Lake
Unrivaled areas, a still more modest and extremely dull shaded mink is
found in Northern Maine and portions of New Brunswick. A little, light
hued assortment is found on the Pacific coast.
The mink has a long, thin body, a little head, and rather short
legs. The tail is for the most part around eight inches long and is very
shaggy.
The hide is thick, fine and polished, and the shading changes from a very
light brown to extremely dim. The standard tone is dim brown, the hide on
the tail being hazier than that on the body.
The mating season begins about the last week in February and finishes
with regards to the center of March. The youthful are brought into the world
in April, there being
from four to six in a litter.
The mink is definitely not a land and/or water capable creature, however it
is seen as just along the
streams and conduits, from which it acquires an enormous piece of its
food. It is an extraordinary drifter, voyaging significant distances along the
streams and lakes, and continuously following a similar course. When on
these
trips it investigates the floats and log-jams, openings in the bank, empty
logs, and so on, which propensity is exploited by the catcher.The fur of the
mink is at its best during the months of November,
December and January, in the north; while in the extreme south, they
are only number one, during December and January. In February, the
fur commences to fade, and they are not worth so much. The dark
colored skins command the best prices.
The food of the mink consists of fish, frogs, birds, squirrels, mice,
rabbits, muskrats, etc., all of which are good for bait. They are
also very fond of poultry.
The traps most used for mink are the Nos. 1 and 1 1/2. The webbed jaw
and the double jaw traps are especially desirable for mink, as when
caught in these traps, they cannot escape by gnawing off the foot.
There are probably more methods used in trapping the mink than in
trapping any other animal. In localities where they take bait well,
the usual plan is to set the trap in the entrance to a natural or
artificial enclosure, on the bank of the stream, placing a bait on
the inside of the enclosure. The trap should be nested down, and
covered with some light material in keeping with the surroundings.
The trap may be fastened to a light clog or a balance pole, or if
very close to the water, to a sliding pole. The bait should be
strictly fresh. Some good scent may be used if desired. Hollow logs
and holes in drifts and under stumps make good places for sets. Some
trappers do not set in an enclosure, but hang the bait about eighteen
inches above the trap. I do not, however, consider this a
satisfactory method. When an artificial enclosure is used, it should
be roofed over with bark, or evergreen boughs to protect that trap
from the snow.
For fall trapping, many prefer to set traps in the water. The
following method is one of the best for a water set: find a steep
bank where the water is shallow, and runs smoothly and rapidly, make
a hole in the bank, on a level with the water, making the hole about
ten inches deep and about four inches in diameter. Put a piece of
fresh bait back in the hole, fastening with a small stick, and set
the trap in the water at the mouth of the hole. Stake the trap the
full length of the chain into the water and cover with mud or
water-soaked leaves.
Along the streams where little sand-bars lead out into the water
select a place on one of these bars, where the water is only an inch
or two in depth, set the trap under the water, close to the edge of
the stream. Fix a small fish on the point of the stick, out in the
stream a foot from the trap, pushing the stick down until the bait
rests partly under water. Stake the trap so that the catch will
drown. This is a very successful set and requires but little time and
trouble to make.
In some localities the mink do not take bait well, in which case,
blind sets--traps without bait must be depended upon. In the fall
while the water is still open, find a high bank where the water leads
off fairly deep, leaving only a very narrow strip of shallow water,
at the foot of the bank. Set the trap in the edge of the water and
stake full length of the chain into the stream. Place a couple of
water-soaked leaves on the trap, and drop a few pinches of mud on
them to hold them in place. The steep bank on one side and the deep
water on the other, will guide the mink into the trap. If, however,
the shallow water extends out some distance from the bank, take a
chunk of water-soaked wood, and stand it in the water, just beyond
the trap, leaving the top rest against the bank. This will leave only
a narrow passage over the trap, and you may be pretty sure of
catching your mink. A similar set should be made on the opposite side
of the stream, if conditions are favorable. This is a very good
method for use in the south.
After streams are frozen, a different plan must be adopted. In such
cases if you can find a jam or drift extending across the stream,
find an opening, leading through this drift, close to the bank, and
set the trap in this opening, covering with fine, drift dirt. In case
you cannot find a suitable passage, make one and stop up all other
holes. A little scent of the right kind may be used here to good
advantage.
[Illustration: Mink Set Under Log. XX Shows Positions of Traps.]
The illustration shows two traps set under an old log, spanning the
stream. The log protects the traps from rain or snow, and a glance at
the cut will show that it would be practically impossible for a mink
to pass along the stream without being caught. The same set is good
for the raccoon. If the stream is frozen fill the opening, under the
log, with old, dead brush, so that there is no chance for the mink to
pass, except over the traps.
Another good method for the wary mink is as follows: find a high,
steep bank along the stream; if it overhangs, so much the better, and
about two feet above the water, make a hole about four inches in
diameter, and a foot or more deep. Leave the dirt that you dig out,
rest directly in front of the hole, and set the trap in this dirt,
covering with same. Pack dry moss around the jaws and cover the trap
first with a sheet of paper, finishing with a thin layer of dirt. Put
some good mink scent in the hole; the musk of the mink itself is best
for this set. If the traps can be visited every day, it is a good
plan to stake the trap, so that the mink will roll around over the
ground, and the next one will be more easily caught.
Where mink travel around a lake, go to the outlet and lay a hollow
log across the stream, just where the water leaves the lake. Set a
trap in this log, covering with fine, rotten wood, and every mink
that travels around the lake, will attempt to run through the log,
and will be caught. If you cannot find a hollow log near at hand,
build a covered passage-way of poles and chunks, and set your trap in
this passage.
Mink may also be taken in box traps and deadfalls.
Scents are much used and there are some few which have proved
attractive. Fish oil is one of the most common scents for mink and
other animals. It is made by taking fish of almost any kind, cutting
them into small pieces, and putting in a wide mouthed bottle. Let
stand in a warm place, loosely covered, until the fish are thoroughly
rotted, and in a liquid state; this scent may be used alone or
combined with others.
If a female mink can be caught, during the mating season, remove the
generative organs, and place them in a bottle, adding about two
ounces of fish oil and all of the mink musk you can get. This is
undoubtedly the best scent ever devised. It should be used without
bait.
In traveling, the mink goes "the jump" and its foot-prints are
always in pairs, the space between each set being from eighteen to
twenty-four inches. The footprints will measure from one to one and
one-fourth inches in length, with one always somewhat in advance of
the other.
[Illustration: The Weasel.]
CHAPTER IV.
THE WEASEL.
The weasel is the smallest of all carnivorous animals and the various
species and varieties are distributed over the greater portion of
northern Asia, Europe and North America. In this country alone
naturalists recognize some twenty species and sub-species, most of
which are found in Canada and Alaska, also the northern and western
states. Of these it is only the northern varieties, those which
become white in winter that are of importance to the trapper.
The ermine of Europe is a species of weasel, and the American white
weasel is sometimes called the ermine, its fur being used to imitate
the fur of that animal.
The change of color in the fur of this animal is not understood by
naturalists. It occurs only in the most northern portions of its
range and it is not known whether the animal really sheds its brown
summer coat when the cold weather approaches or whether the fur
bleaches, but it is certain that the change occurs in some way, the
fur becoming white in the fall and changing to brown again in spring.
The smallest variety of the weasel is found in northwestern Canada
and Alaska and with it the black tip of the tail so characteristic of
the weasel is missing. Very large weasels are secured in the northern
part of Maine, but it is said that the finest skins are obtained in
Nova Scotia and Newfoundland.
The weasel from many sections have a peculiar, sulphury yellow cast
to the fur, especially on the hind-quarters, and of many of these
stained skins only the black tip of the tail is of value. What causes
the stain is not known, neither is there any known method for
removing it. One fur buyer states that about seven out of every ten
skins received, show this yellow stain and are of little value.
The weasel is one of the most blood-thirsty of animals and is very
courageous. It is a terror to rats, mice, rabbits, partridges and
poultry. It will kill for the love of slaughter, even when not
hungry, and I have known a single animal to kill more than thirty
chickens in a night, sucking only a little of the blood from each.
On one occasion I knew a farmer who had turned a drove of fair-sized
pigs into a pasture, and one day, hearing a wild squealing over along
the pasture fence, went to investigate. He found the entire drove of
porkers running along the fence and squealing from terror and
following them was a little brown weasel.
Curiosity is highly developed in the weasel. Many times I have seen
them in my camp at night and if I remained perfectly quiet they would
approach to within a few feet and stand upright on their hind legs to
get a good view. At the least movement, however, they would disappear
only to return a minute later.
As before mentioned the weasel is a blood-thirsty creature, and when
it finds some food that is to its liking it can scarcely be driven
away. On various occasions I have found them attempting to remove the
bait from my traps and such times I would adjust the trap so as to be
very easily sprung, and then step aside and wait for the animal to be
caught.
The weasel has a sharp eye and a keen nose. While trapping in the
North I would always keep on hand a supply of snared rabbits for use
as bait, and often weasels would come into the camp at night,
attracted by the bait, and it is interesting to note how quickly they
could scent out the freshest rabbit in the pile and by biting into
its ears would attempt to drag it away. Quite often they were able to
move a fair sized rabbit. I usually kept a trap setting in my camp
and in this way in one season caught fifteen weasels in one camp.
I have never learned anything regarding the breeding habits of the
weasel, but judging from the large numbers of these animals found in
favorable localities I would say that they are very prolific.
For trapping this animal I recommend the No. 1 1/2 trap and prefer a
trap that is loosely hinged and springs easily, such as the Victor.
Any trap will hold a weasel but when caught in the smaller sizes they
quite often double up about the jaws and when they die and freeze in
that position it is difficult to remove them from the trap. With the
1 1/2 they are always caught over the body and there is little
trouble from that source. As the animal is so very light in weight it
is necessary that the trap springs very easily. There are various
styles of rat traps on the market which make excellent weasel traps,
but as one never knows what animal may happen along, I prefer to use
the steel trap.
My method of setting is to place the trap inside of a small enclosure
of chunks of wood, bark, sticks or whatever is most convenient. No
covering is needed but when setting on the snow I make a bed of
evergreen boughs for the trap to rest on. Rotten wood will answer
just as well. I fasten the bait with a stick just back of the trap so
that the weasel will be obliged to stand on the trap when attempting
to remove the bait, for it should be remembered that they will never
eat any food where they find it if able to move it away. Fasten the
trap securely for some larger animal is likely to be caught. I do not
place the traps far apart, where tracks are seen in fair numbers, and
I drag a fresh killed rabbit from set to set, splitting it open with
a knife so as to leave a bloody trail. Any weasel that strikes the
trail is sure to follow it.
For bait I prefer rabbit to anything else as it contains more blood
than other baits and fresh blood is the only scent that I know of
which will attract the weasel.
In order to obtain good prices it is necessary that the fur be kept
clean and I use a small cloth bag in which to carry my catch.
The tracks of the weasel resemble those of the mink but are
considerably smaller. The average length of jump is perhaps about
eighteen inches.
[Illustration: The Marten.]
CHAPTER V.
THE MARTEN.
The marten is a carnivorous animal belonging to the same family as
the weasel. The principal species are the pine marten of North
America, the beech or stone marten of northern Europe, the sable of
Russia and Siberia and the Japanese sable. Naturalists usually class
the fisher with the martens, also. The Russian sable is the finest of
the martens, the pine marten of Labrador being next in value. The
pine marten is found throughout the timbered regions of Canada and
Alaska, also in the mountainous districts of the western states. A
few are still found in northern Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, New
York, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine.
In size the marten is about the same as the mink of the North and
East, being somewhat lighter in the body, but the longer fur causes
it to appear fully as large. It has longer legs than the mink, and
the feet are larger and heavily furred. The tail is thick and bushy,
the ears and eyes, large and the muzzle is more pointed than that of
the mink. The fur is very fine and soft, the color varying from a
rich yellow to almost black. The fur of the tail is darker than that
of the body, and the face, lighter. The ears, on the edges, are
greyish white and there Is always a yellow or orange spot on the
throat.
In the more southern portions of their range, the martens are quite
pale. The finest and darkest skins come from Labrador and the country
east and south of Hudson Bay, also from northern British Columbia and
the interior of Alaska and the Yukon province. The marten is strictly
an animal of the woods, being found only in the heavily timbered
country. Their favorite haunts are in the rough, broken country,
where the timber is of various kinds. They feed on rabbits,
squirrels, mice, birds and eggs and probably have no trouble in
obtaining a sufficient amount of food, but unlike the mink and the
weasel, they never kill more than is needed to supply their wants.
The young are usually born in April, and there are from three to five
at a birth. Just where they make their dens I cannot say. Some
writers say they live in hollow trees, while others assert that they
live in holes in the rocks or ground. I should say that the latter
idea is most likely to be correct, at least as regards the marten of
the far north, as in that part of the country, hollow trees are few
and far between. One peculiarity regarding the martens is the fact
that they occasionally disappear from a locality in which they were
formerly numerous. The common supposition is that they migrate to new
feeding grounds when food becomes scarce.
The marten travels mostly in the gullies and depressions on the
mountains and hills. As they usually follow the same route, when one
sees their tracks in such a place, he can be reasonably sure, if he
sets his trap there, that he will make a catch. They are not shy or
suspicious and are easily caught. In many ways, marten trapping is
the most pleasant as well as the most profitable kind of trapping. As
they are found only in the timbered country, the trapper does not
feel the storms like he would in an open country. They are easily
caught, light to carry and easily skinned. Moreover, they are a very
valuable fur and if one is in a good locality, he will make a large
catch in a season. They usually become prime about the 15th of
October and remain in good condition until the last of March.
In countries where the snow does not fall too deep, the traps are set
in small enclosures, the same as for the mink. If there is snow on
the ground, I set my traps as follows. With my snowshoes, I tramp the
snow down solid, at the foot of a tree, and build a small pen of
stakes, or chunks split from an old stump. The stakes or chunks, are
arranged so as to form the sides of the pen and the sides are placed
about six or seven inches apart, the tree forming the back of the
pen. I roof the pen with evergreen boughs, to protect the trap from
the falling snow. It is a good idea to leave a couple of boughs hang
down over the mouth of the pen so as to hide the bait from the birds,
and also to prevent the rabbits from entering the pen. I set the trap
on a bed of boughs, just inside of the pen, and cover lightly with
tips of evergreen. The bait is placed on a stick behind the trap. I
fasten the trap to a toggle, but if only marten is expected, the trap
may be fastened in almost any way, as they seldom escape. It is also
a good idea to bend a small twig and place it under the pan of the
trap, to prevent it from being sprung by birds, squirrels and
weasels.
For bait, rabbit, partridge, squirrel, fish, small birds or meat of
almost any kind is good. The Indians sometimes smoke-cure salmon,
pickerel, or white fish, for marten bait, and other trappers use
putrefied salmon roe, but the majority prefer to use fresh bait. Some
trappers advise dragging a piece of fresh, bloody meat along the
line, to lead the marten to the trap.
[Illustration: A Marten Set.]
Another very good method is the following: Find a small spruce, about
three inches in diameter and cut the tree about two feet above the
snow, leaving the top of the stump V shape. Draw the tree forward and
lay it over the stump, so that the butt of the tree will be three or
three and a half feet above the snow. Now, about a foot back from the
end, flatten off a place for the trap and set the trap on the pole.
Tie the trap fast with a light string and loop the chain around the
tree. Split the butt of the tree, and fasten the bait in the split.
This is a very good set, possessing advantages over most methods. The
birds can not eat the bait, the trap is not bothered by weasels or
rabbits, the marten must stand on the trap when trying to get the
bait, and when caught, falls off the pole and can not get back.
In the mountains, where the snow falls deep, the traps are set on the
trees, five or six feet above the snow. The most common way, is to
make two cuts in the tree with an axe, and drive in two wooden pegs,
about five inches apart. Set the trap and place it on the pegs, one
peg passing through the bow of the spring, the other between the jaws
and the bottom of the trap. Draw the chain around the tree and staple
solidly. The bait is pinned to the tree, about a foot above the trap.
A bunch of boughs may be placed over the bait to hide it from the
birds.
If desired, a notch may be cut in the tree and a trap set in the
notch. The notch should be about four inches deep and about twelve
inches from top to bottom. Cut the bottom smooth, so the trap will
set solid and fasten the bait in the top of the notch. Staple the
trap to the tree. If desired, you can lean a pole against the tree
for the marten to run up on, but this is not necessary.
The trapper should always be on the lookout for places in which the
trap may be set without much labor. Sometimes a tree can be found,
with a hollow in one side and this makes a good place for a set. Lean
a pole against the tree, with one end resting in the hollow, set a
trap on the pole and place a bait in the cavity above the trap. At
other times a cavity may be made in the side of a rotten stub and a
trap set in the same way. The traps recommended for marten are the
No. 1 of any make, but the No. 0 Newhouse is much used. If there are
fishers, lynx and other large animals about, it is best to use a No.
1 1/2 trap. Deadfalls are also used and they may be built on the
ground or snow, or on the top of a stump, or the side of a tree. The
track of the marten resembles that of the mink, except that it is a
trifle larger and the footprint wider in proportion to the length.
The toes do not make as clear a print as do those of the mink, the
feet being more heavily furred.
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